[dbsmith88]

Here's the problem: I've got a pretty big chunk of resin that needs to be glued to the outside of the clear B/N canopy of a B-25.

Here's the question: What should I use to glue said resin to said canopy? Regular CA will craze it in a heartbeat and nothing else will work on resin, correct? Should I use no-haze CA or is there an alternative?

What says the hive mind?

Regards
B

[denstore]

Gator glue, white glue or epoxy.

[ThatJeffGuy]

Watch-crystal cement ...sold as GS-Hypo will work too

[dbsmith88]

denstore, on 28 June 2012 - 04:08 PM, said:

Gator glue, white glue or epoxy.

Won't white glue turn loose over time?

[jwest21]

I second the Gator Glue

[ChippyWho]

I can heartily recommend Gator's Grip; nowadays I only ever use cyano-type adhesive for seriously load-bearing joins (resin landing gear bays, etc.).

It takes a little longer to set than superglue, but is much more user-friendly and cleans up easily. At first, I wondered if it would pack any real strength...then I tried to separate a couple of items I'd screwed up. They came apart easier than if I'd superglued them, and in re-usable shape, but they REALLY didn't want to!

[jwest21]

Oh and I read (but never tried)that if you coat the clear part in Future (let it dry)and use CA glue, it won't craze. Wherever I read it suggested holding it by a small fan until it dries to dispurse the fumes

[MoFo]

If it's going on the *outside* of the clear part, CA is fine.

Crazing is caused by the vapours that CA produces as it cures. They rise and collect in the confines of a closed canopy, leaving a powdery white residue that appears 'crazed'. As long as you have airflow over the curing glue, so the vapour can escape, you won't get crazing.

But yes, epoxy, or watch crystal cement, or gator glue, or a non-crazing CA will eliminate all risk. I'd avoid white glue, personally - it's far too delicate.

[loftycomfort]

jwest21, on 28 June 2012 - 04:36 PM, said:

Oh and I read (but never tried)that if you coat the clear part in Future (let it dry)and use CA glue, it won't craze. Wherever I read it suggested holding it by a small fan until it dries to dispurse the fumes

That is correct. Even crazed clear parts can be fixed by dipping it (even including the glued-on resin/PE) into Future.

Terry

[shepard]

Gators grip glue thats for sure...

[scapilot]

I've never had a problem with CA glue crazing anything that I've pre dipped in Future. I had read it somewhere, and dared to try it on a spare canopy from the Tamiya F-16C, having only used Elmers clear school glue prior to that. To this day, I've still yet to have any slight indication of fogging or crazing at all with the future coated clear parts, and I've used three types of CA glue on seperate platforms with no issues.

[shagohad]

If you just dip the clear part in future or the whole assembly a couple of times I promise you won't have to worry about the CA glue frosting the canopy. My method is to dip the part in future let it run off and dry a little on a paper towel for about 10-15 min then dip it again. I usually let the future cure about 2 days before handling again.

When I'm ready to fix the canopy to the aircraft I use white glue to tack it and hold it in place so I can make adjustments (I have never had a canopy go on perfectly without any gaps to fill). Once the white glue has cured enough to where it appears translucent, then I finish with CA glue to permanently fix it to the aircraft and fill gaps. Then just mask, sand, prime and paint!

This post has been edited by shagohad: 29 July 2012 - 06:20 AM