[Whiskey1968]

Hi folks. Have a question regarding the operating temperature for this compressor. I looked but could find no info on the normal operating temp because I noticed it was pretty hot, not enough to burn but hot none the less.

Also, I am getting moisture in either the line or the compressor itself. I start the airflow through the brush and a small bit water comes out tip, splatters or spiders, then goes away until I restart the airflow again. This started happening this evening, happening sporadically not all the time. The moisture trap is dry as a bone....anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Darryl

PS: Found the operating temps, just need to find out what or were the moisture is coming from.

This post has been edited by Whiskey1968: 07 April 2012 - 05:03 AM

[Kei Lau]

Whiskey1968, on 07 April 2012 - 05:00 AM, said:

Hi folks. Have a question regarding the operating temperature for this compressor. I looked but could find no info on the normal operating temp because I noticed it was pretty hot, not enough to burn but hot none the less.

Also, I am getting moisture in either the line or the compressor itself. I start the airflow through the brush and a small bit water comes out tip, splatters or spiders, then goes away until I restart the airflow again. This started happening this evening, happening sporadically not all the time. The moisture trap is dry as a bone....anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Darryl

PS: Found the operating temps, just need to find out what or were the moisture is coming from.

There are many posts on this topic (compressor temperature) at the FSM forum that can be easily searched. See this link or this.

In normal use, you run the compressor in short 5-10 second bursts. The compressor should not get much about room temperature, if at all. You can try measuring the compressor head temperature after holding down the trigger on an airbrush for 30 minutes to force continuous running of the compressor. If the temperature is 20°F or less above room temperature, you get a good compressor, 40-50°F above, you get one that is not well designed. If it runs quietly enough, it may be ok to use, but you are likely to get moisture problem.

Paasche sourced their compressors from both Taiwan and China. The one from Taiwan runs quite cool and the ones from China run hot.

A compressor is likely to be defective if it runs hot in normal use (short bursts) or temperature increases more than 55 degrees in 30 minutes continuous motor run.

This post has been edited by Kei Lau: 07 April 2012 - 07:16 PM

[Kei Lau]

double post.

This post has been edited by Kei Lau: 07 April 2012 - 06:44 PM

[PlasticWeapons]

Where is your moisture trap located? Close to the airbrush or close to the compressor?

[Whiskey1968]

The moisture trap is located next to the compressor. The line to the gun is quite long, around 8-10 feet long. This problem only started very recently, while painting a Jadgtiger (already assembled)for a friend. It took quite a while to complete and during the long process of painting the moisture started. Could I have just run the compressor too long?

I am thinking of buying a filter which attaches to the gun itself, a clear plastic tube with beads in it....the beads are made of a moisture absorbent material. A friend of mine told me about this filter and he has it on his guns as well with no moisture problems at all.

It does run quiet, but gets rather warm after about 20 minutes use. Will have to measure the temp, but I can bet it is over the suggested 20 degrees above room temp

Will try to take it apart and let it sit for a few days to see if any moisture that is there will evaporate.

Thanks for the advice!!


Darryl

[PlasticWeapons]

I have a 10-12 foot airbrush hose and run a moisture trap about three feet before the airbrush. The air coming off the compressor is warmer and cools and condenses by the time it reaches the brush. If you have a moisture trap at the compressor end, it won't catch any moisture present effectively. A trap located farther down will be able to.

I had a typical setup with a trap at the source and kept getting water droplets spraying through the brush. Stuck an in-line filter closer to the brush and have never had moisture again, even on humid days or cool evenings. I use the clunky Paasche D500 and a Paasche H and Talon for painting. The compressor gets hot after about 20 minutes of continuous use but I manage about 30 minutes tops before I have to shut down and let it cool. One of these days, I'll get a quiet one!

Hope that helps!

This post has been edited by PlasticWeapons: 09 April 2012 - 03:16 AM

[Whiskey1968]

It indeed does Plastic...thank you Sir!!

Darryl

[Kei Lau]

I also have a Paasche compressor. It is the DA400. It never get hot in normal operation, only barely warm to the touch. If I forced the motor run 30 minutes continuously, it cylinder head will get to almost 20 degrees F about room temperature.

The Paasche DA400 I have is an older model made in Taiwan. It has been running flawlessly for 4 years. Paasche switched to a Chinese supplier for the DA400 from 2008 to 2011. They got some complaint about the quality control. current DA400 model is again made in Taiwan, but not sure if it is the original supplier.

Most the Iwata and Sparmax do about the same in running quietly and coolly. Modern oilless piston compressor design relies on tight tolerance and a composite coating on the piston and cylinder wall for lubrication. An airbrush compressor is NOT a high tech device, but it does need very precise machining and tight quality control to assure it running quiet and cool.

Darryl, if your Paasche D500SR got much hotter all of a sudden and is less than 12 months old, you should contact Paasche for under warranty service. If it is older and always runs hot, you can improve the moisture situation using the so called "Iwata" trick. Remove the regulator/moisture trap from the compressor and add a 25 feet coiled plastic tubing ($6-7 at Harbor Freight) between them. It can cool the air and let moisture condense in the tubing. The moisture trap takes care of the rest at the airbrush end. Go to Iwata website to download a manual of the smartjet compressor to see the setup.

While at Harbor Freight, get a 2 sets kit of 1/4" brass quickdisconnect for the tubing. It is about another $5.

This post has been edited by Kei Lau: 09 April 2012 - 01:04 PM

[PlasticWeapons]

I'd like to add that if I need to run my old blue monster of a D500 longer than 30 minutes, I use a small fan and run it at full blast over the cooling fins. Oil-less and air cooled compressor! LOL. Works great for summer days.

[Whiskey1968]

I do believe I have it solved now. Advice from folks here, as well as some advice from local airbrush artist .

My current set up is now:

Compressor -- regulator/moisture trap -- 15' plastic coiled tubing -- inline water trap/desiccant -- 10' Iwata hose -- Iwata airbrush.

I hope this works out, wasn't expensive at all, $23 for the trap and plastic coiled tube. I was advised to clean the coiled tube, depending on the amount of use, at least once a week and replace it every couple of years. The trap/desiccant has beads inside that change color when they need to be changed...refills cost $4 for package of 2....I was told, depending on amount of use, humidity etc...they need to be changed every couple of months.

I will also have a fan, thanks again Ryan, cooling the compressor.

With all the advice and modifications in place, I think I have a winner....hopefully .

Thanks every1 for all the help....much appreciated.

Darryl