Made in Texas, doing battle in the Middle East Academy F-16I Sufa in 1/32
#1
Posted 29 March 2012 - 01:24 AM
on
#3
Posted 02 April 2012 - 01:12 AM
I also Managed to assemble and fit the intake duct, lower fuselage/inlet assembly, and main gear well. All these parts interact with each other so dry fitting is important for a good fit. The fit is good enough you won't need fill here, i had to use some Mr. Surfacer 500 on the inlet, otherwise it's been fill-free. Will fit the wing upper parts next, also have to start painting the cockpit, not my favorite task. Waiting for some seats from Sprue Bros. to see how they fit in case some trimming is needed. Few pics for the night.




Don
#5
Posted 08 April 2012 - 06:20 PM






Don
#6
Posted 10 April 2012 - 06:23 PM
#7
Posted 11 April 2012 - 12:57 AM
#8
Posted 11 April 2012 - 01:52 AM
#1 Greywolf, on 10 April 2012 - 06:23 PM, said:
Wolfgun33, on 11 April 2012 - 12:57 AM, said:
The exhausts really aren't hard to do. I can put together a show and tell, post it by the weekend. I got a package from Sprue Bros. today, the ejection seats from Legends and Spice bombs from Isracast arrived. I trimmed the casting plug from the seat and... they fit in the tub!! Lately i've been getting seats from well known manufacturers that were either undersize or too big, these ones look good fit wise. The moulding isn't as sharp as others i've seen, seems like i can't get all in one seat. The pit got a simple paint/wash/drybrush. I don't spend a lot of times on the pits anymore, just don't have the skills to do them right.



The fit between the upper and lower fuselage needed a lot of clamping for proper alignment, didn't have this problem with my Barak. I think gluing the conformal tanks and spine on caused the upper to warp probably due to misalignment on my part.
This came in the package as well.

Has nothing to do with this build, just happy that i was finally able to pick up a cowl assembly with proper flaps for the Trumpeter kit. I'll bet'cha Tamiya comes out with a Corsair, now.
Don
#10
Posted 11 April 2012 - 02:21 AM
Netz, on 11 April 2012 - 02:00 AM, said:
Curt

Yeah, i know... Ya better believe it drives me nuts a little. I have to say, i allow myself to make mistakes building, i allow at least 2 to 3......hundred per build. I figure that's a good margin
Don
#11
Posted 15 April 2012 - 04:31 AM
Don
#12
Posted 15 April 2012 - 05:05 PM
dmthamade, on 15 April 2012 - 04:31 AM, said:
Don
No problem. I haven't even started my Viper yet. Hope you get to felling better.
#13
Posted 15 April 2012 - 09:57 PM

To apply the MiG powdwers i use these brushes. These are used just for weathering. The large brushes are used to blend in the colors.

I start off by getting references to the particular engine i'm doing. These parts are for a GE F110 in an F-16. Basic paint is done next, the inside of the tailpipe and exhaust can getting a coat of flat white. The flame holder and rear turbine get a coat of XF-56 Tamiya Metallic Grey.


The flame holder and rear turbine get a wash of Promodeller Dark Dirt.
#14
Posted 15 April 2012 - 10:10 PM

The flame holder is next. Using the Tamiya kit D and using the supplied applicator, apply Burnt Blue over the whole part, then spot apply the Burnt red, then spot apply the oil stain. Using the applicator, blend the colors together. Blue should be the prevailing color here.

this isn't a great pic.

This was done for my Barak, gives a better idea what your're looking for.

Last step is to take the MiG Pigments Black smoke and apply to holder. Blend in with large brush. Pic above is the finished part. You can go back and add more blue or red.
This post has been edited by dmthamade: 15 April 2012 - 10:13 PM
#15
Posted 15 April 2012 - 10:24 PM

Next i apply oil stain and blend the two together.

The rear of the can is done with MiG Pigments Vietnam Earth. Check refs, the petals seem to alternate between dark and light. I applied the powders here with the angled chisel tip brush.

The section on the right gives a better idea of what i'm trying to accomplish. Use large brush to blend together.
Last is to take black smoke pigment and blend into the entrance to the can, over the area you had done the burnt blue/oil stain and blend in.
#16
Posted 15 April 2012 - 10:34 PM

Then checking refs to see how the pipe gets scorched, start applying the Black smoke.

Add more smoke and blend with big brush.

Do final touchups, adding and blending where needed and assemble parts.



Done. This was done quickly, the smoke needs more work at blending. This pic is from my Barak, same engine and techniques.



HTH. Don
#17
Posted 15 April 2012 - 10:48 PM
#18
Posted 21 April 2012 - 03:12 AM
Wolfgun33, on 15 April 2012 - 10:48 PM, said:
Hope it helps. Really not difficult to do. Have done a little on the build, mostly small stuff. Still have some lumps, bumps and PE to add to the main airframe, then i will do work on the landing gear. I'm hoping to have all subassemblies done so i can prime them this weekend. Pic shows what i have assembled, basically have one semi complete parts sprue to build. I think the hardest things to build will be the Isracast Spice guided bombs. Parts look not too bad but what i see are no real locators for all the fins (12 on each bomb) and not all at the same angles.

Don
#19
Posted 22 April 2012 - 02:29 AM

The piece on the left is the PE piece i couldn't get to work, replacement on the right. Pic below shows part in place.

Overall primered plane pic

Also had a look at the Spice bombs. Cut the pour stubs from the three main parts, cleaned them up, dryfitted them. Pic below shows what i have.

Notice the poor alignment of the tailpiece on the right? These things are going to need a lot of work. I think i'll use two part epoxy putty to assemble and straighten them up. I was wrong about the fins as there are scribed lines on the parts to locate the fins, still think they're gonna be a pain to do.
Don
#20
Posted 22 April 2012 - 02:50 PM
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