CH-47 "D" Starting the figures...
#61
Posted 24 April 2012 - 06:27 PM
#62
Posted 24 April 2012 - 08:14 PM
HeavyArty, on 24 April 2012 - 06:27 PM, said:
I really appreciate that. It seems like it has been such a struggle just to get to this point. Hopefully more progress over the next few days. I have been doing research on the best method to paint ACU camo on 1/35 figures. I wasn't really concerned about the aircrew but the squad has to be the best I can do. So far, the salt method looks to be the best way. I just "wishlisted" my order for Live Resin accessories. Not looking forward to telling the wife about this one. About $200.
#64
Posted 27 April 2012 - 12:09 AM
The front two mounts are really nothing more than steel tubes with s simple pintle welded to them. The forward mounts were normally removed after each fight, especially the one that's mounted across the forward cabin door.


#65
Posted 27 April 2012 - 12:26 AM
Ishthe47guy, on 27 April 2012 - 12:09 AM, said:
The front two mounts are really nothing more than steel tubes with s simple pintle welded to them. The forward mounts were normally removed after each fight, especially the one that's mounted across the forward cabin door.



Awesome, thanks.
#67
Posted 30 April 2012 - 03:49 PM
#68
Posted 30 April 2012 - 08:13 PM
HeavyArty, on 30 April 2012 - 03:49 PM, said:
Interesting. I'll pick up a can and see how it goes on some test pieces. I suspect it will spray too thick. I can always use my airbrush if it doesn't look right, that is if I can find it. My local shop doesn't have Helo Drab green. Anyway, more progress. It took me about three days to glue the fuselage haves together because the fit was pretty bad. So, I taped, clamped and glued a little at a time. The results are not pleasing. I'll have to rescribe and rivet quite a bit. Good thing is though, these Chinooks all look beat up especially around the engine cowlings and APU access so I'm not too worried. I also completed the rotors and hubs. I used model master flat black but I think I'll re-shoot the blades with NATO black. I didn't have any yellow, green, or red striped decals in my spares box so I had to paint them on the hub. So so results. I think I also got the sequence of colors wrong. Oh well, this is my first helicopter. Let me know what you guys think.



#69
Posted 01 May 2012 - 12:35 AM
Quote
Why would it? You can use spray cans on models with no problem. I use them all the time. Just like anything else, done correctly, it works fine. Keep it about 8 inches from the model and keep the can moving, starting and stopping off the model, and you should have no issues with it.
This post has been edited by HeavyArty: 01 May 2012 - 12:36 AM
#70
Posted 01 May 2012 - 12:46 AM
#71
Posted 01 May 2012 - 12:47 AM
HeavyArty, on 01 May 2012 - 12:35 AM, said:
Are you talking about Krylon's Olive green? I searched their site for dark green and couldn't find it. Oh, I have used rattle cans for models before just not Krylon or Rustoleum. I suppose there is not much difference. I'll check Lowes tomorrow and see if they have it.
#73
Posted 01 May 2012 - 02:02 AM
Quote
Yup, that's it; 4293 Olive.
#75
Posted 01 May 2012 - 12:50 PM
You got the colors on the rotor head correct. The blade colors are the same sequence as a traffic signal, with green being the first & the rest following in the direction of rotation of each head.
#76
Posted 01 May 2012 - 02:00 PM
Ishthe47guy, on 01 May 2012 - 12:50 PM, said:
You got the colors on the rotor head correct. The blade colors are the same sequence as a traffic signal, with green being the first & the rest following in the direction of rotation of each head.
Thanks for checking for me. I didn't think there was anything I was missing, just wanted to be sure before I closed up the front.
#79
Posted 05 May 2012 - 02:54 PM






Oh, and my new compressor. Thank you Harbor Fright Tools
This post has been edited by Boomstick: 05 May 2012 - 03:13 PM
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